A girl wearing polki jewellery

Polki Jewellery: Celestial Charms of Indian Jewellery


India's beloved traditional jewellery style, polki, has been worn for many years. A particular place in the hearts of many jewellery fans is reserved for Polki jewellery because of its unique patterns, fine craftsmanship, and sparkling gemstones.


Derived from the Hindi word "Polk," which means uncut diamonds, Polki jewellery is characterized by its use of uncut, raw diamonds set in gold or silver. Unlike other forms of diamond jewellery, Polki jewellery retains the natural shape and surface of the diamond, showcasing its unique beauty.


Polki jewellery is known for its use of vibrant gemstones, including emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, which are skillfully interwoven into the design.


What is Polki Jewellery?

Polkis are natural diamonds in their pure and raw form. Polki jewellery is created with unfinished diamonds in their natural form. If these unfinished diamonds are polished and chemically treated they look like shiny diamonds.  The colour of Polki as compared to the chemically and lab-processed diamonds is a little rustic.


Jewellery designers typically create Polki jewellery by using gold foil, which has intricate designs at the back and they then place the uncut diamonds in gold foils. Polki jewellery has uncut diamonds in it which makes it expensive as compared to Kundan jewellery. Polki jewellery has an old-world charm and goes very well with other bright stones.


History of Polki Jewellery:


Traditional Indian jewellery known as polki has a long history and significant cultural meaning. It was created in the 17th century during the Mughal Empire and has since grown to be an essential aspect of Indian jewellery making.


Uncut diamonds are referred to as "polki" and are frequently distinguished by their facets and natural shape. These diamonds are used to make ornate and intricate designs that are set in gold or silver and mixed with other precious jewels. Its distinctive attractiveness is enhanced by the unpolished, rustic aspect of polki jewellery.


Royalty and nobles began to adore polki jewellery during the Mughal era. Its excellent craftsmanship and the brilliance of the uncut diamonds made it very valuable. Emperors of the Mughal dynasty, including Akbar, Jahangir, and Shah Jahan, were among the Mughal monarchs.


Craftsmanship and Techniques:

Polki jewellery is recognised for its complex patterns and painstaking construction. These gorgeous items are made by skilled artisans using a range of techniques. The uncut diamonds are delicately positioned on a gold foil and ringed by fine gold wires in a Kundan-style setting for the gems. A stunning combination of colours and textures is produced by the craftsmanship, which combines traditional techniques like meenakari (enamelling), jadau (stone setting), and filigree work.


Symbolism and Significance:

In Indian traditions, polki jewellery has a significant cultural and symbolic meaning. It frequently represents ties to one's family and heritage by being passed down from one generation to the next. When worn by brides on their wedding day, polki jewellery is regarded as auspicious and is a crucial component of bridal trousseau, enhancing their beauty and grace. The uncut diamonds are thought to provide luck, wealth, and protection from evil spirits.


Timeless Appeal:

One of the reasons for the enduring popularity of polki jewellery is its timeless appeal. It's traditional weddings and modern festivities alike can benefit from its timeless elegance and elegant aesthetics. Because of its adaptability, polki jewellery can be worn with both Indian and Western clothing, bringing a regal aspect to any look. For their beauty and sentimental importance, polki necklaces, earrings, bangles, and maang tikkas continue to be prized heirlooms.


Modern Adaptations:

While contemporary designers have embraced this art form and given it a modern spin, polki jewellery still has a strong connection to heritage. These days, a variety of polki jewellery styles are available to suit various tastes and preferences. To appeal to the developing fashion tastes of contemporary women, designers experiment with unusual shapes, colour schemes, and fusion styles. As polki jewellery's appeal develops, it remains relevant in the ever-evolving world of fashion.


Types of Polki Jewellery:


Polki Necklace:

 A polki necklace typically features a string of uncut diamonds set in a gold or silver base. It can be designed with a single pendant or multiple layers of diamonds.


Polki Earrings:

Polki earrings are designed with uncut diamonds in various shapes and sizes, often complemented by coloured gemstones or pearls. They can be studs, hoops, chandelier-style, or danglers.


Polki Maang Tikka:

A maang tikka is a traditional Indian hair accessory worn on the forehead. A polki maang tikka consists of a central pendant adorned with uncut diamonds, often combined with pearls or other gemstones.


Polki Bracelet:

Polki bracelets feature uncut diamonds set in a bracelet design. They can be worn as standalone pieces or combined with other bangles for a layered look.


Polki Rings:

Polki rings are crafted with uncut diamonds and are often designed in intricate patterns or with floral motifs. They can be worn as engagement rings, cocktail rings, or as part of a jewellery set.


Polki Bangle:

Polki bangles are made with uncut diamonds set in a circular shape. They can be worn individually or in a stack, and they are often paired with other types of bangles for a mix-and-match style.


Polki Nose Pin:

A tiny piece of jewellery called a polki nose pin is worn there. A single uncut diamond or a group of diamonds set in gold or silver often make up this type of jewellery.


Polki Haath Phool:

Haath Phool, also known as hand harness or hand jewellery, is a traditional Indian accessory worn on the hand. Polki haath phool incorporates uncut diamonds in a design that wraps around the hand and connects to a finger ring.



Polki jewellery is the epitome of Indian craftsmanship, combining the brilliance of uncut diamonds with the artistry of skilled artisans. Its rich history, intricate designs, and symbolic significance make it a cherished part of Indian culture. Whether worn on special occasions or as heirlooms, polki jewellery continues to mesmerize with its timeless beauty. So, the next time you see a piece of polki jewellery, remember the centuries of tradition and the enduring legacy it represents, carrying forward the spirit of Indian art and culture.